Beyond Politics, Cultural restrictions and Language barriers
I have been interested in the concept of soft power diplomacy since I started my studies in PhD at London University in 2010. Since then I have witnessed how soft power can be directly promoted by people and inspire others to promote various cultural and business initiatives globally.
The concept of soft power became one of the hottest topics over the past few years because soft power means the ability to convince or persuade others to follow your example, and achieve the goals through persuasion and cooperation. In comparison to hard power (that is the oldest form of power in diplomacy); it is connected to the idea of an anarchic, untamed international system, where countries do not recognize superior authority and use force or violence as the means to succeed.
American professor Joseph Nye was the first to introduce the concept of soft power in his book, “Bound to Lead,” where he tried to explain and predict the persistence of the US hegemony in the 1980s. Although similar concepts had been introduced throughout history in other disciplines by scholars such as Foucault, Gramsci, Bourdieu, and Weber, modern international relations didn’t develop non-material aspects of power and capabilities. Nye’s introduction of the concept of soft power opened a new window in understanding some of the hidden elements of international affairs such as non-coercive ways of influencing other states. According to Nye soft power is “the ability to get what you want through attraction rather than coercion or payments.”
Today, many countries are trying to use soft power as the tool in international politics and diplomacy. Country’s cultural, economic and political developments can progressively influence bilateral relations between nations. Soft power is a difficult resource to leverage, however, it’s proven that political leadership can capitalised upon soft power resources through intellectual, cultural and scientific spheres. For example, you can measure soft power through the attractiveness and the influence of a country in the world. Various factors could be taken into consideration such as cultural events and the impact of this culture abroad, sports competitions, business brands and their activities around the world.
Soft power initiative extends beyond the governments, because cultural and business activities can make an important contribution to the foreign policies. For example, in the US, Hilary Clinton, the former Secretary of State, has championed the Art in Embassies program. She described art as the tool of diplomacy, stating that “art connects people around the world”. Russian compatriot policy was rolled out to promote Russian culture and Russian language to establish stronger links between Moscow and the Russian diaspora around the world. India is using cultural, political and social tools of diplomacy to become a global player by promoting its cultural attractiveness through Bollywood, yoga, Ayurveda, and religious tolerance.
It’s only natural that fashion becomes one of the strongest soft power diplomacy tools because it’s a perfect combo between art, creativity, and business. In today’s world of fashion bananza everybody wants to find their own style, special look and one of a kind image. Fashion is the only industry today that has no boundaries in expression, no language barriers, no cultural restrictions, sanctions or political agenda. Fashion has become such a social phenomenon and it plays an important role in exploring the personality and individual style for people around the world. And maybe that’s why this industry is truly diverse, international and free minded? On one hand, fashion is the industry of freedom because it unites so many different cultures where creative minds are celebrated for their work and not for their religious beliefs, political support or personal life. On another, fashion gives the ability to the brand to promote its country’s national values, traditions and history.
For example, there are many American celebrities, designers, artists and businessmen that play a big role and have a lot influence in the international arena of pop culture and entrepreneurship. When we think about American brands first come to mind Coca Cola, Heinz, Hollywood, and of course in fashion there are Levi’s, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, and Ralph Lauren. It’s the same for Italian fashion industry. Power houses such as Gucci, Prada, Missoni, Dolce & Gabbana are associated with high quality goods manufactured in Italy. These brands represent Italian heritage, unique craftsmanship and national pride. The same goes for Chanel and Hermes in France.
Another great example comes from China. According to the New York Times China’s First Lady Peng Liyuan is ‘roughly equivalent to Michelle Obama: modern, outgoing, intrigued by fashion’. International media suggests that Peng’s greatest strength is her ability to soften China’s international image and boost the promotion of Chinese national identity. First Lady is a big fan of domestic brands, she supports designers such as Ma Ke and skincare cosmetics company Pehchaolin. By supporting domestic creativity Peng sparked a boost in clothing and textile sector of Chinese stock market and international interest in Chinese fashion designers. Many experts say that First Lady will be able to help China to transform into creative economy and reduce demand from traditional export markets.
I’ve been very proud of fellow Russian fashionistas and designers that have been taking world’s fashion arena by storm. Beautiful and talented Russian designers Ulyana Sergeenko, Vika Gazinskaya and Alexander Terekhov recently started to get a momentum overseas despite tense political relations between Russia and the US. You can spot international celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Beyonce in one of Ulyana Sergeenko’s Haute Couture garments. Vika Gazinskaya had a super successful collaboration this year with Stockholm-based, affordable fashion brand & OtherStories.Alexander Terekhov had training at Yves Saint Laurent, and it inspired him to design feminine and city chic attire that is so adored by Russian show business stars. While American government endorses sectorial sanctions against Russian finical institutions and energy companies, there is a clear indication that fashion is beyond any political strife. On one hand, Russian consumers keep appreciating American brands; on another Russian designers win hearts and minds of the Americans.
What about fashion as a diplomacy tool that can contribute to the resolution of conflicts in the Middle East? There are a few famous designers that come from Lebanese or Jewish origin that became established designers for royalty and VIPs. People buy their clothes and don’t care if they are Jewish or Arabs, they appreciate the brand, quality and innovation of design. Ralph Lauren’s original name is Lifshtiz and he was born in the Jewish immigrant family that came to the US from Belarus. Today, he is one of the most recognized American brands, fashion legend, and mogul with significant contribution to the development and evolution of fashion industry. Elie Saab, Lebanese fashion designer became world famous after he dressed Halle Berry for Oscar’s in 2002. His evening gowns are full of love for feminine glamour, flawlessness, grace and beauty.
There is no doubt that fashion speaks its own language, the language of inspiration, positivity, and appreciation for creativity, it proclaims peace and joy. And it looks like there is not enough fashion in diplomacy. When you appreciate a talented artist and breath-taking creations how can you start wars, conflicts, and political arguments?
According to the above, fashion should become a strong tool for soft power diplomacy because it’s the best way to promote diversity, cultural heritage, skills, talent and unite nations in one simple goal, to deliver and enjoy beautiful creations.
