Christian Dior: The History of Ups and Downs - Alina Reyzelman

Christian Dior: The History of Ups and Downs

 

The famous French brand history is a story of success. The company was founded by the designer Christian Dior in 1946. It was made possible with the help of a French businessman whose name was Marcel Boussac. Dior rejected his offer to develop an old brand he had offered and got a chance to establish his own one as part of Boussac’s textile business.

The first collection was presented in 1947. Officially, it was called “Huit” and “Corolle” lines, but the commentary of Harper’s Bazaar editor-in-chief resulted in its common name of the “New Look”. The lines featured full skirts of length lower than mid-calf and clothes that emphasized the waist. The look was so different from the wartime style that it immediately became a success. Luxurious materials and exquisite lines made Dior’s clothes desirable by aristocracy from many countries.

In 1947, Christian Dior Parfums was founded, as its first perfume, Miss Dior, was presented. One year later, the company expanded and established a department in the US. The year of 1950 saw Dior become the first to label their products. Although the move was denounced by the French Chamber of Couture, the example was soon followed by other brands. The company was developing very fast, expanding to new markets, such as Chile, the UK, Italy, Mexico, Cuba, and Australia. The first shoe line was introduced in 1953. Yet soon the fashion brand lost its leader: Christian Dior died from a heart attack in 1957.

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Without its head designer, the company management simply did not know what to do and even considered shutting the business down, but Yves Saint-Laurent, who became Artistic Director, saved the Dior brand and presented collections that made him a national hero. However, the clothes he designed were too bohemian, and when he was called to join the Army, Dior management was glad to say goodbye to the young couturier. He was replaced by Marc Bohan, who maintained the classic Dior style and helped the ailing company. In 1969, Christian Dior Cosmetics was established.

It was at that moment that they began designing clothes for men — Dior Homme was introduced in 1970. 8 years later, Boussac experienced bankruptcy, and all his businesses were sold to the Willot Group. Yet it was not successful too, and another case of bankruptcy happened in 1981, so the company eventually got into the hands of its current owner — Bernard Arnault. In 1989, Gianfranco Ferré joined the team as a head designer. He brought more refinement and strictness to the Dior looks. John Galliano followed him in 1997, when the Vogue editor Anna Wintour influenced Arnault to make such a replacement. One of the most popular perfumes called ‘J’adore’ was presented in 1999.

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The company was developing and expanding, opening new boutiques in many countries, including Russia, the US, etc. In 2011, the company faced a scandal, as Galliano’s anti-Semitic remarks shocked the society. He was fired, since his behavior did not correspond to the Dior values. He was also replaced by Bill Gaytten, but his collections got mixed reviews, and Raf Simons, a ‘dark horse’ few expected to see, became the new artistic director. The famous film Dior: Secret Garden – Versailles was introduced in 2012 and depicted Dior’s transition. The collection Simons has developed resembled of works made by Christian Dior. In 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri, was appointed the creative director and holds this position now.

Since then, the company has been flourishing and opening new boutiques, and remains one of the most recognized and valued fashion brands.